Circus animals and performers take a parade route through town.
As if two world-renowned hotels in a community of <3,000 people weren’t enough. Did you know that one of the largest circuses of the early 1900s was tied to our area, too?
The Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus was a big deal back in the day. Here’s a few fast facts about our circus past — along with a few ways to experience the circus heritage today.
Ed Ballard depicted in a circus advertisement. The small print reads: "Mr. Ed Ballard, of French Lick, Indiana, is the principal owner and General Director of the Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus, America's Most Unique and Progressive Tented Enterprise."
West Baden Springs Hotel’s owner doubled in the circus business.
Ed Ballard was the reason the circus came to town. Ballard didn’t assume ownership of West Baden Springs Hotel until 1923, but as an influential character from the community with a flair for show business, he headed up a syndicate to purchase the Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus in 1913. Within the next few years, he bought out his business partners so he could move the circus headquarters to West Baden. Hagenbeck-Wallace was actually one of six circuses that Ballard owned.
Hagenbeck-Wallace was the second-largest circus of the era.
It trailed only the Ringling Brothers and Barnum and Bailey Circus in terms of popularity. Remember, this was the early 1900s when folks stayed much closer to their hometowns for entertainment — so circuses were a chief form of entertainment as they toured town to town.
Above: The winter quarters of the circus in the town of West Baden Springs. Below: A circus scene on the front drive of West Baden Springs Hotel. (The hotel would be just to the left, off frame.)
French Lick and West Baden were the circus’ second home.
This became the wintering and training grounds for Ballard’s circus, when it wasn’t touring from April-October. Lions, elephants, zebras, bears, camels and performing horses were housed a short distance from Ballard’s estate. West Baden’s hillsides were dotted with parade wagons and circus tents. Locals were also treated to a circus parade through town and other special circus performances during the winter layover — always one of the highlights of the year.
A few shows even went inside the West Baden Springs Hotel atrium.
Ballard’s worlds sometimes overlapped when circus acts performed in the atrium of West Baden Springs Hotel. These performances were probably low-key shows with clowns, acrobats and comedians instead of full-blown circus acts with animals.
Of course, there was one exception of spectacular proportions: the 1918 Christmas Day circus performance — complete with five lions, four elephants and a large white horse, among others — in a performance for soldiers as the hotel was temporarily being used as a U.S. Army Hospital.
Tragedy closed the curtain on the circus business.
Ballard’s circus business was ultimately devastated by one of the worst disasters in railway history. In June of 1918, the circus train was struck by a speeding train, resulting in the death of nearly 100 performers and employees, plus several animals. Ballard paid many of the funeral expenses and claims from his own pocket. As he lost more and more money, Ballard was forced out of the circus business, but he got out at a good time — he sold his assets to John Ringling in 1929, just six weeks before the stock market crash. The reported sale was close to $2 million; in today’s world, that’d be a nearly $30 million business deal.
One relic of the circus remains today.
The last remaining link to the Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus is a barn that once housed elephants and camels. It still stands today, just off the main highway near Dairy Queen. It’s amazing to drive by and think how much has changed within those barn walls since 100 years ago.
Experience the circus heritage today — in miniature form.
When you visit French Lick Resort, be sure to stop downtown to the French Lick West Baden Museum to see the world’s largest circus diorama. It sprawls out over 1,100 square feet and depicts the Hagenbeck-Wallace circus from the time the train rolls into town to when the show unfolds for fans under the big top. More than 150,000 pieces comprise the diorama, so plan to stay a while and view it in all its amazing detail. And even if your kids are bored by museums, this is an attraction that’ll capture their interest.
